Wednesday, January 17, 2018

Finally some Lofting!

This sailboat is really slow getting started. I'm having at tough time finding any air dried white oak planks to build the frames, and it's taking forever just to get the frames onto a lofting board.

Well I finally got that done today. First, I finished building those tiny sawhorses and moved the strongback out to the sidewalk where I will be building this boat. I picked this location because I can get a trailer next to this spot when it's time to roll the boat from being a hull upsidedown, to go right-side up and start building the top.

I think this will work
The lofting board that I picked up was just a 3/8" thick piece of plywood. This is really too thin, so I added some stiffeners on the bottom before painting the whole thing. I have to move this thing around by myself so I didn't want it to get too heavy, and I have to move it out to the strongback every time I want to draw. So now I have the setup in place, I have my plans printed out, and I have the board ready to draw.

My first frame is drawn!

Laying out the left side

And laying out the right side

Initial drawing of the stem
These drawings are to the outside of the frame. The plans were missing one measurement, so I had to guess and measure and do some math to get a fair line. I hope I got it right, that was for frame #2, so if I'm wrong the sheer line will have a serious kink in it - so let's hope I'm not wrong.

After I got it this far in the process, I can start to really see the size of the boat. They all say it's important to build your boat, not just stick to the plans because that's what that designer wants you to do. So now I can sit with these drawings and decide how I want to build it. Is this really the frameset that I want to use for my boat?

I made a few changes today and finalized the frame layout. First, the boat seemed a bit shallow for the bench seating I wanted to put in the inside of the hull. So I extended the top of the frames by 5" to make the sides a bit taller. That should help get me the seating I need. Also I decided that instead of a hard chine I wanted rounded corners, so I drew those onto the frames as well. I had to grade the corners in a way that would allow the plywood to bend that way, so it also affects the type of plywood application that I use to build the hull. When it's all said and done I used a sharpie to bring the lines home.

That's my boat!

Frames are number (L to R) 3, 1, 5, 4, 2

The stem also got extended 5"
That's my boat! I think I'm going to use 3mm okume plywood to handle that curve, and take up to 3 layers of it to make it durable. That's called cold molding. I might be able to get 4mm plywood to bend like that and use 2 layers, not sure yet. But I'm ready to start building frames now!!

Monday, January 15, 2018

In Living Color

After the drywall is all hung, the hard work begins. Mud, tape, sand, mud, sand, mud, sand into the abyss. I am not the best at this part of the process and I'll spare you the details of my flawed mud jobs. It's pretty bad. Plus here we have a situation where the thickness of the drywall was not always the same as the thickness of the plaster and they had to join up sometimes. The corners between the wall and the ceiling had huge gaps that had to be filled in with dope and taped up. It was all a mess.

So much mud!

joining the drywall (right) to the plaster (left) is a nightmare

Mud is not my friend

All that dust!! Kelley is cleaning up back there

That green on the left is plaster

All cleaned up and primer is on!
Next up we added paint. Once we thought there was enough dope and sanding done we put on a coat of primer, then had to debate about the color. In the end, we settled on a light blueish purple. Our youngest kid was quite distraught that we didn't choose her shade of pink, but a pink kitchen? no. come on, child. no.

I'm still jazzed about the electrical here

An eggshell finish hides all flaws

my kid is goofy
Having a finished color on there is the first time we're getting to a real finishing step. There is still a ton left to do here, but it's all finish work. Well, almost all. There is still one pretty serious piece of construction that we have to take care of.

Friday, January 12, 2018

Drywall Sucks

And I'm not very good at it. I can usually find a decent way to hang sheetrock on the wall, but mudding, taping, and sanding is so frustrating. I did it, but it did not turn out very smooth.

Setup: now we've got all of the plaster down, insulation is up in the exterior walls, the interior kitchen wall is opened up into a new header and the flooring has been repaired in the fridge nook.

Cover the exterior walls

New electrical and plumbing for the new refrigerator location

Still has the old fridge in there

Who hates hanging drywall?

This guy

going back to the kitchen

Hallway walls are all covered up
I still have to deal with these new cabinets too. That last pic shows where we had an electrician come in and hang a light bulb on the left, and move the outlet & switch (for that bulb) down to the middle of the wall. I need to get the cabinet walls & face frames built before I can hang drywall there.

melamine going in!

Got a couple of boxes and face frames covering the melamine edges

Drywall, and I got the right side box & face frame in place

Replaced the bulb with a recessed light and added the drywall top & right

That recessed light makes all the difference. Also might notice 2 refrigerators

The new Fridge Nook!
Those cabinets took 2 sheets of 3/4" melamine from Lowe's at $31 each plus some scrap 1x3 for the face frames that I had lying around. They are just boxes right now. The left cabinet on the left side is getting a door, it's only 13" deep. The right cabinet on the left is 26" deep, so it's getting a pull out drawer behind the door to make more stuff available. The right cabinet is a full 38" deep, so it is also getting a pull out drawer box. I cut the doors out of 1/2" plywood but haven't painted or installed them yet. Still have to make the boxes.

Added the butcher block and finished wrapping the header

I love the way the header & recessed light are the same height

From the hallway side

the back wall

Looking through the hallway

The butcher block cabinet
I built this butcher block cabinet back in 2001. Kelley worked at a furniture store that got the top & the drawer in for a damaged piece of furniture. The vendor sent replacements and told the store to give away two of the damaged pieces. So I got one and built this cabinet and our friends got the other one and just put legs on there. It's on caster wheels, and we've never had a kitchen that could hold this cabinet. Even 17 years later it's still one of my favorite pieces of furniture that I've ever built, and now quite handy in the kitchen! Kelley loves having it as extra counter space.

So now that the drywall is all hung, it's time for the dusty, filthy, suck-ass chore of putting on joint compound, taping the seams flat, putting on more dope, then sanding most of it off.

Wednesday, January 10, 2018

The Fridge Nook

Getting the plaster gone and the header up was all that Kelley wanted going into thanksgiving. We hosted the Turkey dinner this year in the middle of the construction zone! I think her family was kind of surprised to see that on Friday I went right back into construction mode. We had everything cleaned out and free standing, so it was time to start building back.

Fridge floor is cleared out! I had to replace framing and subfloor

Added a new hardwood floor that matched the existing very old floor exactly

You can barely tell the old from the new
Our laundry room used to be a carport, apparently. There was some concrete steps that went into something, but they had been framed over for the refrigerator. The original linoleum obviously had to be removed, but after we killed the wall framing it left huge holes in the hardwood. So I decided to just strip it all the way down and replace framing and everything. Really wish I had gotten pre- and post- demolition pictures, but I had it all the way down to the concrete.

Cabinet framing!

Getting prepped for new cabinets
I wanted to use the existing studs and floor/wall framing to support the base of the new cabinets. I'm building these inside of the walls, so the face frames & doors will be flush with the wall. I need these to be sturdy, so I started by making a jigsaw puzzle of 2x4's, then wedging that sucker inside of that existing space. The result is something that is very secure, with no trouble supporting my 215lb fatass when I tried to sit on it. I can get a left cabinet that is a reasonable 13" deep, and the right cabinet can take a solid 2' of storage space.

The right side cabinet had an existing floor, so in that picture it's just an open space into the attic (not good when it's this cold up there) that goes back a full three feet. I didn't need to put any 2x4 bracing in there, it was already pretty solid.

So to me, it looks like it's time to start hanging drywall!

Monday, January 8, 2018

Turn to the other side

Now that we've got the hallway under control, it's time to make some decisions around the doorway into the kitchen and what to do with the fridge & that desk in the hallway. Our kitchen is small. Very small. You really can't have more than one person trying to cook at a time in there it's so small. Kelley has been wanting to open up that one wall for about 4 years now just to get the visual effect that the kitchen is bigger. Our idea was to open up the space where the fridge was, so that we could turn the fridge to face into the kitchen. Yes the kitchen is so small that there is no refrigerator in there. It won't fit.

The decision was made to slide the fridge into the hallway while we were under construction, then take down the plaster to expose the studs. After that is all open, decide how to remove studs, build a new header, and what has to remain.

We start by defining the edges of what can be removed and finding out what's behind the plaster.

Break on through to the other side!

Demolition Man - I hate demo

Ah the cloud of plaster dust - the fridge is out of the hole

Plaster is down from the kitchen side!

 These last two pictures show both sides of the same wall. Top from the hallway, you can see the corner of the fridge now in the hallway. The header above that fridge area on the right is exposed, as is the wall that was formerly hiding the fridge from the kitchen. Think we can cut down that many studs?

That's some very old linoleum in that fridge spot. I'd say it's from the 60's

Refrig Out!

Note the white paneling in the fridge surround

We opened up the space close to the cabinet too

Some of the studs are gone! So is the plaster dust cloud! So is the white paneling in the fridge area

I'm working on some electrical - details below

Electrical is frustrating

very frustrating

New header is in place!!!

The whole space is open and the new header is up!

From the hallway side - new header is 2x10's and took 2 studs on each side to support

Detail of the electrical update

Guess what was behind the fridge paneling? Nothing! New found space!

New, open spaces
That last picture: New open spaces. The bottom area (see white painted studs) is the laundry room downstairs. But above that, is nothing. It's just open space? They just framed those walls out away from the foundation for some reason. Well I can use that. Looks like new cabinet space for the tiny kitchen to me!!

Electrical: we had an electrician come in to deal with some stuff in the main breaker box so we went for some advice too. He said all of my work in the switch box was done properly and is to code, so I felt safer about that. He also said that while the drywall was down I should add more outlets. Put an outlet every 6 feet on every wall and you'll never need an extension cord. So I ended up adding 4 more outlets in the hallway. In the kitchen, we rigged a cut up extension cord to control a light over the sink when we plugged it in, and that is some ghetto shit right there. I picked up a 2-rocker switch to replace the existing switch for under-counter lights and the ghetto extension cord, and added another outlet into that junction box too. It has been incredibly useful since I finished that.

Header: I used 2x10's on the advice of a family member who is a structural engineer. I think that used to be an exterior wall, the roof trusses above did show some weight bearing but only to one side. So I braced the roof properly, pulled down the last support studs for the middle, and got the header in place with the help of Kelley and her mom. Then we got studs underneath to properly support it and removed the bracing. That was a stressful day. But everything stayed where it was supposed to!

I am not a huge fan of demolition. Really I prefer to step into a clean work area and start building. So having the majority of the demo done and all of that old stuff gone from the house is a huge relief. Framing is pretty fun but kind of tricky. Finally getting all of the plaster down and the wall removed is bringing some real relief to us.